The train is trundling through the empty landscape of northern Romania at little more than 20mph, punctuated by passing through the occasional halt where the station masters in his uniform dutifully stands to watch us go by.

After nearly three hours of sub-30mph speed, the landscape has become more cultivated, and the train is now travelling at more than 70mph. I'm not sure if this will claw back any of the 30 minutes late we are now running, but there's a museum I want to go to that closes early this afternoon.